Painting on New York City's steamy summer waterfronts, oil oozing out of the paint on the sun-struck palette. Barge workers yell profanities as they churn up the still stinking, soup-like Gowanus Canal, as landscape workers prune the shrubs outside the new luxury apartment building overlooking it. Is that really a rowboat, does the Dredgers Canoe Club really paddle these waters? Dumbo now teems with tourists, its once-gritty waterfront re-sculpted and beautifully dressed in native plants. On the Manhattan side, the Fulton Fish Market got evicted to the Bronx; a bike path now overlooks the few remaining barges. Everywhere, new towers defining the skyline. And over and through it all, enormous iconic bridges, stacked and intersecting highway and pedestrian bridges, even a city street that's a drawbridge.